Well, you taller than 6mm can answer as well..

Joking aside, I only play FoF solo, and in 6mm I can use more stuff but in a smaller area, which suits me fine. I was thinking of playing in cm instead of inches, and making modular terrain in which one module become equivalent to a 1'x1' section of a table.
The problem here is how to make the layout without making the roads a grid pattern or without having roads ending in a weird place, but I'd rather not have a bunch of loose road sections. Maybe I shouldnt have modular terrain at all? *confusion*

How do you guys layout a nice 6mm gaming table?

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/Jonathan

http://tinyterrain.com/

http://mytinythings.blogspot.com

I use Z scale model rail road felt road and street sections for Europe and USA zombie games. I use the 2 and 4 lane road and street sections from Gamecraft minnies for Middle east games.
you can also make your own using styrene sheet. A Lot of people think that if their road and street sections follow a grid pattern that they won't look right ..If you think about it most modern streets and roads are laid out in a grid pattern in built up areas...so they do indeed portray the real thing if laid out that way....Mikey

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"All Men for the rights of Every man, every man for the rights of all Men"

I was going the CM rout too. I picked up a bunch of JR minis road sections some time ago, along with their river sections, scaled for 6mm, but also got the larger scales to lay out multi-lane roads and wider rivers. The river sections scaled for 28mm are nearly wide enough to do some riverine Vietnam stuff with. If I scaled my modified German Town scenario to CM, strictly it would be 24cm square. I fudged a bit after putting in the JR roads, so I have 30cm square. I checked the distances and find that the Soviet (Iraq in my conversion) armor can do 60cm of movement during the 6 turns allowed, so I think that little bit of increase wont impact the game, but if it were strictly foot movement, I'd either reduce the area back to 24cm or increase the game by one turn in order to make sure the area doesnt mess up the victory conditions.

Something else I'm tinkering with is using small metal rings to show wounded figures on the bases. But I'm putting details and most markers on cards I have made up for each vehicle or fire team. I'll see how this works out tomorrow for playtest. Keeps me from having too many markers on the table. Some, like Hidden, cant be avoided and actually can be placed on top of the unit to help conceal it, but many can be kept on the cards and off the play area if we do it right. I'll be back with more details tomorrow on how it worked.

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Tom Oxley
OD Green Old Fart
FoF: RtB, EF, AV, CWGH, DotR, BW, DMA, Fal, C-SOM, SOG

Thanks! Don't forget the camera.

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/Jonathan

http://tinyterrain.com/

http://mytinythings.blogspot.com

I looked around on the net and here of course and toyed around with some different idéas. I think that I'll stick to the idéa of a grid, but starting with some more spaced tiles until I get a hang on making those houses. Let me know what you think. None of tha houses are glued and most will have a wall around them.
Sorry for the bad picture, but I think you get the general idéa.


Bigger picture on my blog.

_________________
/Jonathan

http://tinyterrain.com/

http://mytinythings.blogspot.com

Looking good! When I finally get into a truly new period of gaming (Naps or Civil War), I think I'm gonna go the 6mm route. I'm not sure if I'll ever have a dedicated gaming space big enough to have a table larger than 6x4, so it just makes sense for us without access to gigantic club spaces.

Hi guys,
my favorite way to create a nice table layout is to find some maps from PC-games (Blitzkrieg or Company of Heroes for instance). Then I lay a 30cm by 30 cm grid over that map-jpg. Now it´s up to some scaling the picture ´till it fits...

Here´s an example of my current table:



The tiles are 30x30cm (1´x 1´).

That's excellent. I'm still trying to get a sheet of felt painted in blocks of different shades to make it look more like that without seperate making seperate blocks. I've got a good selection of road and river pieces from JR Miniatures, hill pieces in sand and green in several scales that make up many different sizes of real hills and lots of buildings between resin models from JR Minis and paper models from the Paper Terrain guy. I got the Roman buildings from Hotz to do towns for my Punic Wars gaming, but otherwise, most of my stuff is somewhat generic to fit anywhere between Napoleonic and WW2. With much of my mini buying behind me for a while, I'll focus more hobby money towards my terrain collection. Until I can get my Punic Wars, WW2 Russians and Japanese, Korean War aircraft, Napoleonic Bavarians, Russians and Wurtemburgers, moderns and Colonials painted, I have promised the wife, no new troops.

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Tom Oxley
OD Green Old Fart
FoF: RtB, EF, AV, CWGH, DotR, BW, DMA, Fal, C-SOM, SOG

Sharp looking table. Looks like it'll be fun to game on. I've been wanting to do a tiled approach similar to what you did for my 20mm troops. I've been looking at the site below thought I'd share in case you decide to do some rivers and wanted some ideas of course the scale is bigger.

http://www.quindia.com/studioarticles.htm

It's the second from the bottom line of images. The bottom is for some desert terrain.

Yeah, it´s is really fun playing on that. And it´s really modular, so i can vary the layouts as i want. Thanks for that link - found some new ideas for my own tables. :-)

No problem. I've been wanting to do the modular terrain for my collection of Vietnam stuff but it's been put on the back burner for a bit due to the Modern period bug biting me. Too many scales and too many periods and they are all to dang tempting.

Can't wait to see what you come up with next.