so here are 2 test buildings I have done for Afghanistan. what do you all think?

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http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/

They look good. What scale?

I really like them. What scale and do you plan to sell them? If not can you share your techniques and materials?

Later
John

The two Taliban are from Elhiem, so that´s definitely 20mm
They are looking good. I prefer the right model though, the left compound is a little too grany for my taste.

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>Operation Firefly - Our FoF-Counterinsurgency Campaign in Afghanistan<

I agree with Black Guardian, the right one is...the right one.

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"That men do not learn very much from the lessons of history is the most important of all the lessons that history has to teach." - Aldous Huxley

Both look good.

I prefer the left for the more rural dwellings up in the mountains where things would be less refined. For it, I would be inclined to have a slight overhang to the roof as it is very wet and cold in the winter.

Based on photos I have seen from the region I think both can be used. The left one does work better in more rural areas while the right is better for urban areas. I don't plan on selling them because I dont believe the quality in my production is good enough yet. However they are easy to make and I'll walk you through it.

I use foam board for my buildings which normally gives unattractive edges like this:

one of my first attempts (28mm scalse)

To solve the edge problem I got a tool called a rabbit cutter for less then $10 off amazon:


Its also important to make sure you have a sharp modeling knife, and a accurate way to measure strait lines.


decide on the hight and length you want for your building, this can be done by simply placing a figure next to the board and picking something that you feel looks good. for 20mm I make 1 story buildings 2in tall. Length varies based on need. So on your foam board, using your measuring strait edge, draw each wall section and cut them out. Now is also a good time to draw and cut out any doors or windows.
Take each cut out wall section and run either the right end or left end of each section (need to do the same end of all of them) through the rabbit cutter:


The rabbit cutter will remove part of the backing without reducing the overall length:


Next take the cut end of the front wall and glue it to the uncut end of a side wall and repeat all the way around:


once the glue dries you can start the roof and add-ons. I'll do an actual walk through of the next building from start to finish if thats will be more helpful but as I need to get more foam board this is all I could do for now. Once you get comfertable with this method you can do more complex buildings.

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http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/

that is an excellent tool
must get one.
nice buildings as well
shaun

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www.sandsmodels.com
sales@sandsmodels.com
THE 20mm cold war vehicle and equipment supplier.
http://escapecommitteewargamers.blogspo ... n-sea.html

Wow thank you. I really love your products and think they are very high quality. I take it as high prays coming from you.

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http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/

Lookin good!!

Do you texture with rough sand?

I like to get my sand form the park down the street.

I have a large screen that i pour it through to get out all the debris and it leaves a pretty fine consistancy.

You can also use Woodland Scenics Ballast. It is super fine walnut grindings. Works awesome!!

I have also used a ceiling texture from LOWES. It comes in a cardboard carton and is used for ceiling texture repairs. Just mix it in your paint and give it a go!!

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Armed and Ready

many thanks, but i just carried on at the stage you are at and kept trying harder and getting better, like almost all of us wargames manufacterers really.
some of my early stuff looked really naff now.
shaun

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www.sandsmodels.com
sales@sandsmodels.com
THE 20mm cold war vehicle and equipment supplier.
http://escapecommitteewargamers.blogspo ... n-sea.html

At first yes I was using regular sand. Now I sift it for a finer grain. I'd prefer to use something to give it a plaster look but so far have not found anything around here that works well.

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http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/

I use some cheap (£1.50) ready mixed wall filler I found in "Wilkinsons", its high in alcohol for a fast dry action (which is all smell and no rapid action). You spread it thinly with the flat of a ruler or small scraper if you have one, wait a few hours and it dries to a white, chalk like finish that you can scratch or chip off quite easily. A thin coat of "Sandtex" -I use tester pots £1 each from same place, completes the job.

Jim

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What is the difference between God and a Para?

God knows he is not a Para.

Finished all my homemade buildings and walls. Here is a sample with more on my blog.



http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/fof-afghanistan-buildings.html

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http://wyndehurstproductions.blogspot.co.uk/