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Sgt. Scream
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 5:39 pm |
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| AAG Ambassador |
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:52 pm Posts: 1613 Location: Weiden/OPf, Germany
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Tom and Clavicula:
My idea would be to use the inner lid of soft drink bottles. Do you know these Powerade bottles where you don't need to remove the lid for drinking? Before you can you have to remove a blue or white piece of plastic and then screw down the actual lid again (hope this makes sense).
These inner lids should have about the correct diameter and shape for a good satellite dish.
The inner lid/seal of one of these
http://www.minerva.unito.it/Alimentare/ ... caCola.jpg
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Chris W
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 5:53 pm |
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| Sarge |
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Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:12 am Posts: 84 Location: West Yorkshire, UK
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Excellent figures and terrain. Your attention to detail adds to the building greatly.
Chris W
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splod89
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:12 pm |
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| Pathfinder |
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Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:26 am Posts: 655 Location: Tasmania, Australia
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Very nice work.
Great to see a good start made on the task 
_________________ 
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TomKonczal
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:54 pm |
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| AAG Pointman |
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:10 pm Posts: 562 Location: Orland Park, IL
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Sgt. Scream wrote: Tom and Clavicula: My idea would be to use the inner lid of soft drink bottles. Do you know these Powerade bottles where you don't need to remove the lid for drinking? Before you can you have to remove a blue or white piece of plastic
But aren't those seals too soft - I think you need a hard plastic. I'm trying to find something foir a small satellite truck like I've seen on this board and Sands Model pictures.
Tom Konczal
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Sgt. Scream
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:30 am |
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| AAG Ambassador |
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:52 pm Posts: 1613 Location: Weiden/OPf, Germany
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Soft plastic? Well - they aren't over here.  With primer the paint should stick on easily.
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TomKonczal
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:11 am |
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| AAG Pointman |
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:10 pm Posts: 562 Location: Orland Park, IL
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I took a water bottle cap and using an xacto knife, cut around the edge and then cit the inner edge off too. Very sturdy and just glued it on with all the other bits of plastic to make my vehicle satellite dish:
Decals are drying and weathering to follow
Tom Konczal
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Sgt. Scream
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:28 am |
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| AAG Ambassador |
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:52 pm Posts: 1613 Location: Weiden/OPf, Germany
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Not a bad start either. 
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TomKonczal
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:53 am |
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| AAG Pointman |
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2009 10:10 pm Posts: 562 Location: Orland Park, IL
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It was your bottle idea that made me think and I stared at the water bottle I was drinking as I put the cap back on it. Thanks for putting me on the right track.
Tom Konczal
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cuckoo
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:27 pm |
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Joined: Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:23 pm Posts: 235 Location: Germany, NRW
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Nicely painted stuff. Keep on going, mate.
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jim_keats
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:26 pm |
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| AAG Pointman |
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Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2009 2:09 pm Posts: 1473 Location: Worcester, MA, USA
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Great work!
I am planning on making some satellite dishes myself. I was planning on using the case that my disposable contact lenses come in.
This is something that I love about this hobby: you never look at things the same way anymore ("Hmm, with a bit of work, that _____ would be perfect as a miniature _____!") 
_________________ I could agree with you...but then we'd BOTH be wrong.
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dizbuster
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:33 pm |
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| Major |
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:31 am Posts: 451 Location: Sussex
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brevet
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 5:07 am |
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Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:43 am Posts: 105 Location: brisbane
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Great stuff Sgt scream it pays to have a modelers eye everywhere you go you never know what you can find and the things you can make out of everyday things. 
_________________ I spin an spin an spin some more
www.brevet.com.au for all your wargaming needs makers of fine pewter mini's and resin accessories
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Sgt. Scream
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:46 am |
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| AAG Ambassador |
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2009 2:52 pm Posts: 1613 Location: Weiden/OPf, Germany
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Thanks, guys.
Today I have used Armypainter's green stuff for the first time. Never used any such thing before and started without reading into any tutorials. I knew you mix the two colours and once it turns green you sculpt it.
Like I said - the first time ever and hence the task set for this was easy so I can actually achieve it (pathetic isn't it?!). I had bought Liberation Miniatures AT-4 missile launchers for my Army soldiers and wanted some of them to carry them on their backs. I had to add shoulder straps and so I used the green stuff to create some (yes, I will remove the mould lines before painting):
The soldier on the lower left is from Combat Miniatures 20th Centuary 20mm range, called Desert Fury - Karbul to Bahgdad as sold by Stonewall miniatures. It has had no up-to-date body armour, only a flak vest - so I tried to represent the current body armour with green stuff, too:
Now I have a question: how long does green stuff usually need to dry before I can paint over it? *scratching my head*
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nikharwood
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 3:04 pm |
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| Lt. Colonel |
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Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 4:14 am Posts: 1297 Location: Somerset, UK
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It'll be mostly dry in anywhere between 30 & 90 minutes - depending on temperature / humidity / how you've mixed it etc etc...you'd be best off just forgetting about it overnight though to be honest.
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GRNDL
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:02 am |
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Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 11:44 pm Posts: 19 Location: Ontario, Canada
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You can actually paint on green stuff right away - it will continue to cure - so long as you're not heavy with your brushwork. I'd wait 2 hrs if you're in a rush. You can also speed up curing time by putting it under a halogen desk lamp or some other heat source.
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