Lads,

I guess I had to go this way somedayÖ as recently some people were starting african projects...

Heavily influenced by Matakishiís work, this is my go on a ìself contained clustered African type shantiesî ñ OK more the type you could see in more southern areas, like Zaire and Angola.
http://www.matakishi.com/africanbuildings.htm

As usual, made from foamcore card core, with plastic card for the rest

The start ñ in reality this was the test-bed for my Middle East shanties






Figure 20mm Liberation just for scale

Some texture done ñ mostly Vallejo pastes










After some painting thrown in ñ pictures taken to catch unsolved areasÖ







Some small details ñ still have to work out the roofs, and retouch some of the rusted tin areas




As in all shanties areas, lots of recycling has been done


Working at the moment on the roofs ñ basics already done and painted, simply needing some more clutter.

The base also needs some more extra detail ñ thinking about itÖ.. stay tune on this one.

And these will be the first of a couple of them

Thanks for looking, comments welcome

Faustnik

Those look great. I love the corrigated metal. What did you use for that? Looks like styrene (plasticard). These will fit the bill nicely, and I have made several using the same methods.

Keep it up, mate!

Goomb

Exactly, evergreen or simply recycled cookies trays corrugated plastic.

All excelent, in several ways.

A+

Faustnik

Lads.

Some update of this Project ñ slowly moving towards the end:

Manage to do and paint the tin roofs ñ again made from several material sources, like the real ones.






These one must be the big boss bhouse, as he manages to have some sort of hot water system ñ a simple barrel on the roof


Mama TchiíPoina manages to get some of those rear seats from a recent Technical conversion, from one of her sons...


The roofed area finish :yahoo:



I decided that on these cluster, the clutter will be minimal, as we will use loose gravel and clutter on the end, to fill in the Shanties complex areas.

Next, finish some open areas, do the final washes and tear & wear on the houses walls, and do the last touchesÖ.

I need to hurry, as I have some more projects to do, and go mouldingÖ

Thanks for looking, comments welcome

Faustnik

cool mate..

_________________
owner of the yahoo group for WW1 ,WW2 and Modern TO&Es
(Tables of organisation & equipment or Unit of action )

http://games.groups.yahoo.com/group/TOandEs/

http://falkirkwargamesclub.org.uk/

really nice models !!!!!!

_________________
'' I love my models , they are made of swiss cheese ''

These look awesome! How are you planning to use them with the building clearance rules in FoF/AA?

Each shanty as interior, so consider it a single building for the clearing roll - this way you have to do a lot of close fighting to clear a single complex...

A+

Faustnik

Ouch!

Due to my current lack of buildings, I've only played pretty rural games atm. How high and how fast do casualties rack up in FoF when engaging enemies in urban terrain? I'm guessing that attacking forces take quite the beating, unless they get a heavy supremacy in both firepower and surprise?

Not a lot of experience with modern FoF in MOUT but from my WW2 scenarios I could tell you that a good planned attack normally do little casualties on the attackers force and a lot on the defenders.

If you starting getting lots of casualties on the attackers you are doom!

FoF and AA plays almost like squad leader and Advanced Squad Leader for most situations: get local superiority; wither the opposition down; go in or close assault them to wipe the rest - remember to keep always some close support in any action you do, with crossfires and overwatches.

A+

Faustnik

Jose, if those would survive the trip across the pond I'd get you started on a dozen of 'em for me!

One of us needs to re-locate!

_________________
Shawn Carpenter
Game Designer, Ambush Alley Games

"I don't wanna be remembered as the guy who died because he underestimated the threat posed by a monkey."

Awesome work!

Someday, I'll work up the nerve to try scratch building my own stuff.

- Jim

_________________
I could agree with you...but then we'd BOTH be wrong.

For someone starting to scratchbuild using foam core and plasticard for the first time (instead of balsa and basswood) can you recommend different thicknesses of the plasticard to get? I know it comes in different thicknesses but not sure what you recommend using for what - or if you use different thicknesses regularly but for different things.

Do you buy plasticard from a hobby / model rr source or do you use stuff like the plastic signs you see in hardware stores?

Any information would be appreciated.

Thanks,


JJ

this looks really well!
the detailing is astounding and i really like the door and the blue parts of the walls. they are top notch!

ive made about fifteen shacks and like their look but they ar not as good as yours but i dare say, i lot quicker to make.
have a look in my blog:
http://totte.leblog.se/building-a-shack ... -wargaming

_________________
http://totte.leblog.se/ - my glass cabinet on the internet. hey, that rhymes!

Lots of questions, that I will try to answer

I tend to use what I have, so foamcore card (cheap and sometimes you get it free), MDF (normally 3mm thick) all of each I get from DIY stores).

Most of my corrugated roofs were made using suitable plastic, not plasticard, from several sources, like plastic recipients for cookies, drinking cups and so on - I'm always on the scrounge...

Lots of materials you can get from daily use, some of them we send to the bin - just look at them, see some use and wash them.
After that just cut what you need and use your imagination, or clone someone work, if nothing else goes... like reality.



Those are excellent, well done.

I simply don't use card because it warps easily.

And an interior is a must for me, so I need to do it.

By the way another simpler method is to use small paper-mache boxes - as used on the gifts - as a base for shanties, or even middle east buildings...

A+

Faustnik