Hi guys, just quick question. while I'm waiting for my first 20mm minis to arrive from elheim i thought i'd knock up a bit of afghan theme terrain. what sizes are you using for 20mm buildings? ie doors, windows, height of a story etc.. i'm used to 28mm buildings you see.
Cheers for your help

I just buy from www.Gamecraftminiatures.com :-p

However at one point I did all the math to make my own stuff. If I can find my conversions I will post them.

_________________
Nick Johnson, Treasurer of the League of Extraordinary Gamers, Colorado USA
http://www.hmgsrm.org/forum/index.php

My Blog!
http://littlenickysgameroom.blogspot.com/

Game craft does look tempting, but it's across the Atlantic from me!

As far as I understand, orders across the Atlantic are still received very fast, and usually cost less than 20 dollars to ship... which if you are in England is roughly 12 quid.

One thing you can do though is look at his dimensions. I am pretty sure he gives the dimesions of his buildings. That is a good starting point. I think when I was building doorways I made them 25mm tall. Windows were usually 15mm in height, with the top being level with the door. For A-Stan, windows are generally fewer than Iraq, and generally smaller. Roof tops in A-Stan are also not as profound as Iraq.

_________________
Nick Johnson, Treasurer of the League of Extraordinary Gamers, Colorado USA
http://www.hmgsrm.org/forum/index.php

My Blog!
http://littlenickysgameroom.blogspot.com/

Hey Buddy,

this is how I managed to get the data for my buildings:

Take the measurements of the doors and windows of my home in cm. Divide this by 72 (for 20mm) and voila - I have the size for doors, windows etc. For doors it will be 2.8 x 2 cm.

Ragnar65

Ahh do i need to get used to 1:72 scale being accurate as opposed to 28mm 'heroic' scale, ie not to scale at all

Depends whether you want accurate models or game friendly models...

My general rule of thumb is doors 6ft 6inch so slightly higher than a standing figure + height of the base and a little for aesthetics and finger room if you intend to have miniatures standing in them. For width i tend to make them a little wider then the bases i use, this goes out the window if you're using section or squads to a single base if thats the case then width is roughly 1/3 the height. Once i have the doors sized i then work the windows to fit aesthetically, windows can be all sizes and dimensions so it's whatever looks good. For garages and other industrial type doors i tend to base them on small vehicle like jeep or car.

Here's a useful site with lots of helpful details and plans, most is 28mm but it's all relevent and its alot easier to do your own measurement to someone else blueprints

http://www.matakishi.com/makingbuildings.htm

All the best

_________________
http://projectqalpha.blogspot.com/

does anyone have any templates?

No templates I'm afraid, but this is what i ended up doing, i plan to post some pics over the weekend. i made a single storey 60mm high, on the back of this i drew three horizontal line, on 20mm from the top, one at 30mm and one at 45mm down. the top line i glued small tabs to to stick the recessed roof to. the next line was the top of the doors and windows which were both 15mm wide. the bottom line was the bottom of the windows. i've made buildings upto 140mm long by 80mm deep, which seem a reasonable size for a 2foot board

20mm and 1/72nd are the same. Assume that a six foot tall man is 72 inches in hieght, hence 1/72. Now the "average cieling hieght in a home is 8 feet doors are about 6 feet 8 inches in hieght. I dont think there is a need to get all scientific and mathmatical about it. Just make your doorways slightly taller then your figure. But as stated above "Gamecraft" has taken all the guess work out of it for ya and make wonderful buildings in 20mm scale at a VERY resonable price...

_________________
http://stepman3.blogspot.com/

The Manoeuvre Group guys make some 20mm paper models available pretty cheaply via Wargamevault. They are made to fold flat between games, but would also give you some templates to go by for do-it-yourself builds.

Tom

_________________
Tom Oxley
OD Green Old Fart
FoF: RtB, EF, AV, CWGH, DotR, BW, DMA, Fal, C-SOM, SOG

next paycheck i'm ordering manouver group and maybe paper terrain too. in the meantime, i downloaded some building images from junior general which look nice, but are flat i.e. no balcony to stand on, no roof wall. a word of caution though - the images i got were tagged as "part 1" and "part 2" but i found out the images were different sizes so they didn't line up when i printed them. the solution i found was to print each "part" twice even though that meant the opposing sides would be identical and the roof shadows would be wrong. but hey - nobody will see both sides at the same time and free is free - right?

cheers - PP

When printing paper model PDFs, make sure to turn off "scaling" on your printer setup. If you "shrink to fit", the pages can scale independantly of each other. Better to lose some of the unnecesary text at the edge of the page than to have one sheet scaled differently from the other. To save color ink, try printing in B&W on scrap paper first to check. Most of the model designers will take this into account and keep a good margin around the model parts, but every once in a while a part will be a little close to the edge of the card and a printer that uses an unprintable margin will miss that but it's pretty rare. Again, try a test print in B&W on regular paper before using up color ink/toner on more expensive stock.

Tom Oxley

_________________
Tom Oxley
OD Green Old Fart
FoF: RtB, EF, AV, CWGH, DotR, BW, DMA, Fal, C-SOM, SOG

tom -

yeah i did no scaling first but it clipped off the last 2 inches of the building as it was some european size page that my printer didn't support - i max out legal size pages (8x14). the doors came out a little small if figs are nearby but i can get used to it.

- cheers, PP

I hadnt even thought about that paper size difference. Got spoiled with all the US and Canadian stuff. Try inverting the picture (rotate 180 degrees) and see if the part that got cut off will print out fully. Adobe can let you choose which part of the page to print, at least in the pro version I have at work. If you shrink by percentage instead of "to fit", at least all pages should be scaled to the same amount.

Tom Oxley

_________________
Tom Oxley
OD Green Old Fart
FoF: RtB, EF, AV, CWGH, DotR, BW, DMA, Fal, C-SOM, SOG